After we returned from our sightseeing adventure, we were hungry so we went to the hotel restaurant called Cilantro at 6:15pm. The people at the restaurant looked at us like we were crazy and told us that the restaurant didn’t even open until 7:30pm. So we made a reservation and went to relax by the hotel’s beautiful pool and talked about our day. What a day! We were so glad that we came in a day early to get time to look around the city.
We arrived at the restaurant at 7:30 and we were the only people in the place. Apparently, we were doing the “American Early Bird Special!” By the time we left at 9:00, the place was full. The dinner was a buffet of global cuisine; Indian, American, Italian etc. So we ate up. I took this opportunity to try lots of different kinds of Indian food. Everything was labeled so I was able to decide what I liked and didn’t like for the rest of the week. I found that I really enjoyed all of the cottage cheese dishes. Indian cottage cheese isn’t chunky like it is here in the States. It is in blocks or chunks like tofu. It is one of the main vegetarian foods that you can get in India and is prepared many different ways.
We were exhausted after we finished eating and we had to get up at 5am in the morning to leave for Agra at 6am. So it was time for bed. I set my wake-up call for 5am and was asleep by 9:30pm. Unfortunately, my body was still adjusting to the time and I was up at 3am in the morning. I read and worked on my computer a bit. I headed down to meet David and Nick at 6am. David had ordered us water and pastries for the trip and I brought along some travel snacks.
We headed out on time for a four-hour drive to Agra, the home of the Taj Mahal. Agra is due south of Delhi and we would have to drive through several small towns to get there. One of the stereotypes that you hear about India is that cows are sacred and they are just roaming the streets. I had yet to experience this, but today was the day! Before we even left the city, we could see cows walking down the street. From then on it was non-stop; individual cows wandering around, herds of cows being shepherded across the street, and cows roped to tents, cots, and buildings. I couldn’t tell why some cows seemed owned by people and others were roaming the road alone with no one around. The other interesting thing was that it wasn’t only cows, it was pigs, goats, and dogs too.
Once outside the city, not only were there animals the entire trip but there were was constant traffic; rickshaws, motorcycles and pedestrians. There were lines of women carrying grain and water on their heads. It made for interesting sightseeing.
Then there was the most alarming part, the sheer and utter poverty. We saw some poverty in the city but nothing like in the rural areas and the small towns that we drove through. There were rows and rows of refugee-style camps along the side of the road. Families were actually living under a blue tarp with a handmade cot inside. Children running around in just a shirt and underwear and no shoes. Some of the people were lucky enough to have found some sheet metal and had built a shack out of that. Others used mud and grass to make a small hut. To make the situation even more disconcerting was the amount of trash and garbage that these people lived in. There were plastic bottles and bags, littered food, and waste everywhere. No one picked it up or even seemed concerned about it. Then out in front of these tents, people would have booths to sell food or plastic bottles of Pepsi. Wandering animals would be eating from the trash ridden streets and alleys. I was in complete awe. I couldn’t comprehend this level of poverty right before my eyes. I felt so sad and helpless driving by in my rental car to see the Taj Mahal. It seemed so shallow. And yet how many people made the trip from Delhi to Agra every day and see the exact same thing that I was seeing and do nothing. I felt caught; I was only able to drink sealed bottled water in this country but yet look at where many of the plastic bottles ended up. I had a whole new respect for America’s sanitary departments. But in the end I guess that it is no different in America; all of the garbage just ends up in a landfill instead of out for everyone to see. Here there was no escaping what humans are doing to the environment.
At one point, we had to make a stop as we crossed into another providence to pay the toll. As we were stopped, some beggar men came up the car and wanted us to take a picture of their monkeys. I graciously declined and wished that I would have locked my car door before we stopped. Nick decided to do it but wouldn’t pay the guy until the driver came back to protect us in case there was an issue. But now I can say that I saw a monkey up close and personal hanging off of my car door posing for a picture. How many of you can say the same?
I would just like to make a personal note here. I was very nervous about the bathroom situation on this day trip. The bathrooms at the hotel were fine, but what would they be like elsewhere? So I purposely limited my water intake to the absolute minimum. But about halfway into the trip, the driver stopped for a break at a hotel that had outdoor bathroom facilities. There were a bunch of other tourist cars there also on their way to the Taj so I thought that I should take this opportunity to use the facilities. So I headed in and a nice Indian woman who had been waiting outside apparently just for me followed me in. The bathroom itself was very simple, concrete walls for the stalls and very dimly lit. The toilets were not in the greatest shape and smelled bad. There was a drain in the floor of the stall and an sprayer hanging on the wall. I didn’t know what all of this was for, but felt that I was now committed since the Indian woman was waiting for me. I flushed the toilet and water started seeping out of the base of the toilet where it was attached to the floor. But it seems that this was normal since all of the water naturally flowed to the drain the floor. The woman was waiting to give me personal service. She turned on the sink water on for me and handed me towels. Then she held out her hand for a tip. Luckily, I had a small bill handy and tipped her for helping me use the bathroom. It was such a strange feeling to know that this is how she makes her living. She provided personal bathroom service for tips all day. When no one is in the bathroom, she sits outside waiting for someone to use the bathroom. David acknowledged that he had a personal attendee too so it must be the thing to do here.
With the bathroom experience behind us, we stretched our legs and waited for our driver. At the entrance to the hotel, there were actually people huddled around a pot playing the “cobra song” on a flute — the one where cobras are hypnotized and rise out of the pot without hurting anyone. I couldn’t see the snake yet, but as we drove out there he was. A smallish cobra being played with by the men. It was kind of cool to actually see people doing this in real life.
As we drove onward, we were able to see some camels and elephants too. I couldn’t believe the size of one of the elephants that we saw just walking down the road carrying leafy greens to feed their animals with. One man was riding on top and one man was walking beside the elephant. It made me wonder where one actually gets an elephant or a camel. I didn’t get an answer to that, but it was an interesting thought nonetheless.
Finally after four hours of driving past cabanas sponsored by Pepsi and random Technology and Management Schools, we arrived at Agra. Agra was no different than the other towns that we drove through, lots of run-down buildings, lots of booths set up along the side of the road, lots of animals and lots of trash. We stopped at a gas station to pick up our guide. We were running a bit ahead of schedule so the guide had not arrived yet. The tour company actually operated out of this gas station. A gentleman came to our car to explain the situation and asked if we wanted to wait inside in the air conditioned office. He also offered us the use of their bathroom. I was wary but again I was thinking it might be better since it was the bathroom for the tour agency. So I gave the bathroom a try. The man escorted me back to an outhouse shaped building with a lock on the door. I went in but couldn’t find the light switch and it was really dark inside. The walls were again all concrete with a very small opening at the top of one of the sides to let light in. I went but there was no toilet paper nor a sink. Thank gosh David brought along his assortment of baby wipes and hand sanitizer. I couldn’t get out of the bathroom fast enough. Of course the gentleman was outside waiting for me so I couldn’t look like I was too traumatized by the whole thing. David and Nick were standing by the truck. I tried not to walk too fast to the vehicle but I was dying for some of David’s sanitary wipes.
As we waited for our guide, we had time to look around. The gas station looked pretty normal. The one thing that was different was their fire extinguishers. There was a rack of 6-8 red buckets hanging along one side of the station. The buckets read FIRE and were full of sand. That was quite the sight!
As we looked down the street, we saw cows wandering along and enjoying shady trees. We also saw a make-shift shaving station. It had a chair and a small table to hold the straight-edge razor and creme. There was a gentleman enjoying a shave as we watched. So bizarre but I guess everyone wants a smooth face.
Finally our guide arrived and we were off to the Taj. It turns out that the Taj was just a mile up the road from the gas station. But halfway there they do not allow cars to go any further so we had a couple of choices, we could go by motorized rickshaw, camel cart or walk a half of a mile through the beggars. We took our guides recommendation and took the fast and cheap way by motorized rickshaw. We filed in and headed off. We were dropped off about 50 ft from the entrance and walked through the beggars to get the rest of the way. Our guide told us to completely ignore the beggars. But even so, it was hard not to say something especially when the children were asking us to go to their store.
We paid to get into the Taj and went through security. No one is allowed to take in any electronics besides cameras, no food except for water and nothing like cigarettes. Once inside the entrance, you stroll through a garden walkway. As the case in the Hismayan monument that we visited in Delhi, the first thing that you see is the gateway. So we stopped and our guide gave us the history of the gateway and the outer buildings. There was an entrance to the south of the gateway which went out into the city of Agra. When the Taj was built, the city had a street for each type of work that needed to be done. When the King needed inlay work or stone work, he would send someone out to the appropriate street and get the work commissioned. The gateway itself was enormous. It had excerpts from the Koran written in a calligraphy style and inlaid into the marble with onyx. It had three archways and domes made out of red sandstone. They were in the process of renovating it and there was scaffolding made out of bamboo roped together the entire height of the gateway.
We headed into the gateway and it was there that we saw our first glimpse of the Taj Mahal. We were standing in one of the most famous spots for taking pictures of the Taj. It was the picture of it through the arch of the gateway to the Taj. It caught the reflecting pool and the beautiful architecture of the Taj itself. It also captured all of the people who like us had made the journey to see the monument. Around 20,000 people every day come to see the sight. I could see how that could easily be true. There were people everywhere! Our guide took a picture of the three of us with the Taj in the background just on the outside of the Gateway. We then walked along the empty reflecting pool to the a middle reflecting pool also made out of marble. The reflecting pool is only filled in the morning and then the water evaporates and is used to water the lawn around mid-morning. The middle reflecting pool was also empty, but had several benches which is a great spot for pictures of the people posing in front of the Taj. I took my snapshots and we veered off into the garden.
I haven’t mentioned it yet, but it was soooo hot here. I was so glad that I had put on sunscreen and wore my hat. But even so, I was already worried about the french-fry that I would be in a few hours. The guide must have noticed and took us to a shady bench in the garden. It was there that he gave us the history of the Taj while we were sitting looking at its beauty. I recommend clicking on the link above to learn more about it. The extremely short cliff note version is that it was built for a King’s wife that had died in childbirth. It took 22 years to finish. It is supposed to resemble a woman ever-changing but always beautiful. The entire site was built to represent balance and symmetry. The Taj itself is completely symmetrical and the garden is in 4 quadrants with the reflecting pool running North/South through the middle of the two halves of the garden. There is a building to the left of the Taj which was (and still is – on Friday’s) a mosque used for prayer service. To be in complete balance, there was an exact replica of the mosque on the right side of the Taj was wasn’t used for anything. The Taj is set along a tributary of the Ganges river and is constructed entirely of marble with inlays of several precious stones. Our guide was such a good storyteller and was really knowledgeable about the sight.
He then led us to the foundation of the Taj. We were required to put on booties over our shoes prior to walking onto the marble of the Taj. We walked up the steps to the terrace level. The marble was beautiful and very cool to the touch even in the heat of the sun. We headed up the steep, slick steps to the entrance of the monument. There are no pictures in the monument but I got one looking back towards the gateway before we headed in.
The monument was complete chaos. There were people who were responsible for keeping the herd of people moving around the monument. They used sharp whistle blows to get people’s attention and then shooed people along with their hands. Our guide got permission to take us aside so he could tell us in painstaking detail all about the inlay work. He knew every precious jewel and detail of how it was done. Unfortunately, it was so hot with all of the people inside the monument. We finally moved forward to see the tombs. The tombs that we saw were empty. The actual remains for the King and his wife were under the tombs. Until about six years ago they used to let the public see the actual tombs. But it was even hotter down there with no air flow and people kept fainting. So they finally closed off that section and now it is covered with a gated grate. The empty tombs were surrounded by the most intricate inlay work in the Taj. The marble was also carved out into small intricate holes so you could see the tombs through the gate. The workmanship was amazing! The only thing in the entire landscape of the Taj that wasn’t balanced and symmetrical was the King’s tomb which was added next to the Queen as an after thought when he died. Her tomb is centered within the octagon marble gate and the King’s tomb sits to the right of her.
We finished being ushered around the gate and tombs and we headed back outside and down to the terrace level. We viewed the river from the terrace and saw kids and cows cooling off in its water. I was really busy trying not to get sunburnt. David lent me his umbrella, so I was managing that with the camera, purse and life saving water. We headed over to the mosque replica and took some nice pictures of arches and pictures of the Taj through the arches. Then we headed back to the gateway and rested while he gave us some history on the security gate. We had seen everything and were feeling ready to go. So we headed out through the gateway and the garden walkway. We retrieved the MP3 player that had to be put in storage while we went inside and then it was time to brave the beggars. We were targeted immediately with water, Taj snow-globes, t-shirts, bull whips, etc. There is no Taj Mahal gift shop just these little stores right outside the entrance. We again ignored them and walked back to our rickshaw who had been waiting the 2.5 hours for us to return. All of the other rickshaws wanted our business but our guide shooed them off and herded us into the one waiting for us. Can you believe that the going rate was $1 for the rickshaw driver to drive the four of us both ways and wait for us while we were inside? Amazing!
We returned to our vehicle and they took us to the shop so we could see inlay work being done by the descendants of those that worked on the Taj. The demonstrated how the inlay work was done and the tools that were used for it. David took the opportunity to try his hand at it. It is not as easy as it looks! Then they took us into the showroom and gave us the spiel on good marble vs not so good marble. Then they let us look around and it was then that we got our first encounter with the Indian sales people.
I had heard that they were relentless but I had no idea that it was on the order of a 5:1 ratio. They were pretty calm when we were in the expensive inlay room but as soon as we said that we were ready to leave, they called in reinforcements. They ushered us into the next room with less expensive inlay work like checkerboards. We still weren’t biting so they took us to the next room with even less expensive stuff. I decided that there was finally something in my price range for Sebine. When else would I have the opportunity to buy inlay work done in “good marble” right outside the Taj Mahal? So the salesman showed me everything in my price range and then started upping the stakes again. You can get this for $15 more, $20 more. But I liked the first one and held steadfast. Another salesperson came and picked it up and took it to the register. The gentleman with me was already showing me other things that I could buy. David and Nick were getting the same treatment but decided not to buy anything. I checked out with 5 people helping. One person wrapped the item, another ran the credit card, another ripped of the receipt for me to sign, another got a bag to put the item in and lastly a supervisor to make sure I was fully taken care of. Talk about full service shopping.
I thought we were heading out since it didn’t look like Nick or David were going to buy anything. But the big dog came out of the woodwork and insisted that we were to go upstairs and see the “surprise.” I was hoping that we weren’t going to be carved up. Hopefully, the guide would not leave us in danger. So we waited dutifully for the elevator and headed upstairs. We were shown room after room of other things to buy including jewelry, clothes and rugs. They would turn on the lights in one of the rooms and there would be 5 people there standing in the dark waiting for us. They would immediately rush over to us. I was instantly a target for the jewelry room. Unfortunately for those guys, I didn’t even go in. In the rug room, we were shown the demonstration which was amazing. It takes a guy 2 months to make a smallish rug by hand. Wow, talk about carpal tunnel syndrome. Then the sales job as rug after rug was pulled out and dramatically unrolled and laid on the floor for us to see. David decided to be really goofy and laid down on a bunch of the rugs which threw off the sales people. They just started bringing out bigger rugs that he could fit onto when he laid down. Finally, we had all had enough. Frankly, I was done about 20 minutes ago. David cut them off and we headed to the elevator alone with all of the sales people calling for us to wait, they had something else to show us.
We were exhausted when we returned to the car. The guide was ready to take us to the Red Fort for more sightseeing or to stop someplace for lunch. We had had enough. I refused to eat anything from a stand. I would rather starve. David and Nick were done sight seeing so the only other option was to be done. So we dropped off the guide at the gas station, tipped him and headed toward home. We didn’t stop on the way back. We just watched the sights go by. I wasn’t even as affected by the poverty as I was on the way down. I was over-saturated with culture, sightseeing, traffic, and animals.
Four hours later, we arrived back at the hotel. We headed to our rooms to decompress. I tried to go to the pool but it was closed. Apparently they were fumigating the mosquitoes. I instead showered and watched TV alone in my room. I headed to the spa and made a reservation for a massage the next morning. I made it for 9am thinking who has a massage at any earlier than that? Then I headed to the lounge area and found David drinking and working on his computer. I joined him for a drink and we talked about our day. It was another amazing experience for the memory books.
We decided to eat at the Japanese restaurant for dinner that night. I was completely against eating anything raw but thought something teriyaki would be good. So we waited around in the lounge until 7:30 and we headed to the restaurant. It was completely empty again because of course we were early birds in India. David ordered a sushi roll sampler and I ordered the teriyaki. It was really good food. But everyone laughed at me while David tried to show me how to use chopsticks. I did get the hang of it ate the entire meal without a fork! Yeah!
Well, it was then time for bed. I was so exhausted and we started work the next day. Luckily, we didn’t go into the office until 11am. So lots of time to sleep, right?